El objetivo de este texto es promover la cocina haitiana y contribuir al desarrollo económico de las comunidades negras al deconstruir el centralismo occidental que paraliza a los empresarios negros, tanto a nivel nacional como global.
Propaganda occidental
Estimados lectores, les reto a hacer una búsqueda en Internet y encontrarme un país de las Antillas o África subsahariana que aparezca en los rankings de la mejor cocina del mundo.
Este ejercicio rápidamente se vuelve agotador cuando uno se da cuenta de que incluso en las listas más largas de destinos gastronómicos, las naciones negras brillan por su ausencia.
Para no cruzar las líneas de la cortesía, digamos que este bombo es una papilla para gatos, y que la cocina haitiana, gracias a sus sabores picantes, está en la cima de la pirámide. gourmet.
Ya sea que se trate de noticias de CNN, revistas de viajes o revistas de comida, la cocina de los negros está siendo condenada al ostracismo por los críticos gastronómicos.
Como saben, esta eliminación discriminatoria, que es un insulto a la creatividad culinaria de los haitianos, es parte de la costumbre de Hollywood y los medios occidentales de presentar al hombre blanco y a la mujer blanca como criterios de belleza y símbolos de éxito.
En la televisión y en la gran pantalla, como en las revistas de moda, continuamente asistimos al desfile de rostros helénicos, cabellos lacios, ojos azules, ojos verdes, etc.
Sin embargo, en la industria de la gastronomía, las cosas no son diferentes, porque en cuanto hablamos de clasificación mundial, surgen los mismos clichés: “La cocina francesa es la más refinada, Italia domina la gastronomía mundial, España a la cabeza del ranking de las mejores cocinas del mundo ‘.
Para no cruzar las líneas de la cortesía, digamos que este bombo es una papilla para gatos y que la cocina haitiana, gracias a sus sabores bien especiados, está en la cima de la pirámide gastronómica.
Después de todo, ¿no era Cristóbal Colón, este navegante free-rider, en busca de especias cuando aterrizó en Ayiti el 5 de diciembre de 1492?
Olvidarme de sí mismo
Lamentablemente, gente de la comunidad, muchos de nosotros caemos en la trampa del propagandista occidental.
Incapaces de descolonizar nuestra imaginación, imaginamos historias en las que Occidente juega un papel protagonista. En otras palabras, creemos que cualquier cosa que venga de Europa y la América blanca es mejor que lo que la África negra y Haití tienen para ofrecer.
Desde nuestra ruptura con la esclavitud, nuestra atención a menudo se ha centrado en un mejor ilusorio en otros lugares, y para satisfacer esta fantasía occidental, sublimamos a extraños que son muy comunes.
Por ejemplo, en una época, la población se burlaba de los zapatos hechos en Haití (soulye peyi) y los zapatos importados (soulye etranje) eran recibidos con adoración y alabanza.
Y en Montreal, en muchas de nuestras bodas que se celebran en salones de recepción italianos, abandonamos nuestro caracol rosado y nuestro tasso de cabrit, de ternera, para dar paso a la pasta italiana.
Por el contrario, los recién casados italianos en ningún momento sustituirán su osso buco o sus ravioles, platos tradicionales de su país de origen, por patés haitianos y bacalao acras en el día más feliz de su vida.
¿Por qué entonces este olvido de sí mismo? ¿Podría ser que estemos subestimando nuestro propio valor?
Eufemísticamente, diría que nos ha golpeado duramente la aplanadora de la occidentalización y el mesianismo cultural.
¿De qué sirve hablar del movimiento “Buy Black” si no elogiamos públicamente la excelencia de los empresarios negros, especialmente los restauradores?
Sin embargo, en esta mezcolanza de restaurantes haitianos donde Kamúy y L’O’Rhema destacan por la excelencia y diversidad de sus kwizinn, el Steve, Anna, Sissi & amp; Paul y muchos otros miembros de la comunidad hicieron un buen uso de su tenedor antillano en Casserole Kréole.
Escribiendo su propia historia
De hecho, hay más de 1.804 razones por las que nuestra cocina debe ser reconocida como la mejor del mundo, y la sopa Joumou encabeza la lista del argumento de superioridad haitiana en gastronomía.
Para nosotros los haitianos, esta sopa representa libertad, orgullo, gloria y triunfo, pero para los extranjeros, constituye un viaje en el tiempo a nuestros antepasados donde fueron humillados Bonaparte y su ejército, es decir, contar una lección de historia sobre la Batalla de Vertières. a través de una experiencia culinaria memorable.
Personalmente, no tengo nada en contra de los espaguetis a la boloñesa y lasaña de Italia, sin embargo, que estos supuestos expertos gastronómicos no vengan y nos digan que estos platos superan el lalo de patas de cerdo y cangrejos Artibonite.
¿De verdad crees que la tortilla de patatas de España es superior a nuestro griot acompañada de plátanos pesados y pikliz, elementos que juegan un papel fundamental en nuestros platos fritay?
Debo admitir que disfruto del foie gras y el cassoulet francés, sin embargo no se comparan con el arroz pegado y el pollo con nueces de mi kinam del norte de Haití.
El carácter proteico de nuestro arroz es una riqueza culinaria tanto para Haití como para los amantes de la gastronomía.
Desde el arroz djon-djon hasta el arroz blanco con salsa de guisantes negros, incluido el arroz con guisantes del Congo, el ingenio de nuestros antepasados ha permitido que muchos gourmets y gourmets de todo el mundo despierten sus papilas gustativas.
¿Y el pescado a la “sal gruesa” de Léogâne, Tomtom y Komparèt de Jérémie?
A diferencia del gran intelectual Aimé Césaire que en 1956 llamó a Occidente a “dejar que los negros entren en la gran etapa de la historia”, debemos escribir nuestra propia historia para corregir las faltas voluntarias de los pobladores.
Sí, hijas e hijos de Dessalines, tenemos el deber de difundir nuestro saber hacer culinario para que nuestra gastronomía esté bien posicionada en el panorama internacional.
¿De qué sirve hablar del movimiento “Buy Black” si no elogiamos públicamente la excelencia de los empresarios negros, especialmente de los restauradores?
¿Cómo podemos esperar que abundan los restaurantes haitianos en el centro de la ciudad de la metrópoli y en el Puerto Viejo si los montreales no saben que la cocina haitiana está en lo más alto del ranking mundial de gastronomía?
Depende de nosotros convencer a la gente de que nuestro Patate Bread es el mejor postre de la galaxia y que nuestro Douce Marcos (dous makos), el orgullo de Petit-Goâve y nuestra crémasse son insuperables.
Depende de nosotros vender nuestra ensalada, queridos compatriotas.
Por último, debemos dejar las cosas claras para ponernos al día con nuestro retraso en el desarrollo económico.
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